It’s a rare treat for Joburg to get to taste food by Mmabatho Molefe, chef-owner of Emazulwini restaurant in Cape Town. It’s also an exciting feat for the chef to share a piece of herself with the city for the first time. So, history was made and heart-warming connections forged when chef extraordinaire Wandile Mabaso opened his Les Créatifs kitchen for a pop-up fine dining experience by Molefe.
Themed “Memories of my Childhood” the four course meal with wine pairing celebrated modern Zulu cuisine, which is essentially the ethos of Molefe’s Emazulwini restaurant.
Molefe’s food is heavy on offal, but is refreshingly light in presentation, clever in technique with vibrant colour. A proud dish of hers is the first course, Ulimi noshatini — thinly sliced corned beef tongue with tomato relish purée, amasi dressing and salsa jellies, fresh and subtle.
She shows off her technique and playful flavouring with the second course, Amanqina enkukhu — chicken feet terrine with onion and ginger mayo, confit garlic, pickled shallot and pickled celery. Her explorative approach to refining Zulu cuisine can only get better.
The restraint in the third course, Ipapa nekhabishi — braised beef heart with braai pap, sauteed cabbage and beef heart biltong — says something about respect. While the finesse of the ingredients around it elevates the dish, the integrity of Ipapa nekhabishi as we know it is not tampered with. This cheeky yet humbling statement challenges perceptions that often slot traditional foods in ‘poverty foods’ stigmas.
These culinary discourses that Molefe puts on a plate are part of the reason she is included in the 50 Next Class of 2022 list of people shaping the future of gastronomy.
When he’s not giving other chefs a platform, Mabaso is a force. He established Les Créatifs in 2019 after returning home from working internationally for 17 years. He earned his stripes by working with Alaine Ducasse at his Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris, Le Meurice. A Luxe Restaurant Award winner for Chef of the Year 2022, Mabaso serves up masterful French cuisine with a South African soul.
Molefe’s Ulimi noshatini form part of Les Cre’tifs and Emazulwini’s menus. Photo: Supplied
The Place: Les Créatifs
Ideal for: Luxurious fine dining — from a romantic dinner date to get-togethers with friends or family.
Order this: The four-course menu with wine or cocktail pairings changes frequently for seasonality. If you’re lucky, you might find the 12-hour slow braised short rib with potato and chakalaka purée, served with charred asparagus, rainbow radishes, baby turnips, balsamic glazed candy beetroot, pickled black beans, carrot chips and a red wine and beef jus.
Signature Bev: The passionfruit and coconut cocktail with passionfruit monini, Malibu coconut flavour, Barcadi white rum, lemon and clear apple juice is delicious, especially when paired with a dessert.
You’ll like it if: You are curious about modern French haute cuisine.
The Friday Mood Is: A cosy elegance with artistic tones.
Social Media: @lescreatifsrestaurant on Instagram / Les Créatifs Restaurant on Facebook Location: Shop 12H, Hobart Grove Centre, Hobart Road, Bryanston
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