Bookmark these Jozi stores

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Seeking out the beauty and other things of interest in Joburg can be a challenge. We have no mountain by which to navigate her vast street network, nor do we have seascapes to take our breath away. Although, the infamous Joburg pothole has, on many occasions, taken my breath away.

One needs to dig deeper amongst her 2 300km2 to find Joburg’s character, up on the Highveld where at just on 2 000m above sea level, it takes you a full extra minute to boil an egg. As I recently discovered, Joburg has a fine history of independent bookshops, owing to new books being all but out of reach of the everyday Joburger back in the day. Yip, back then they also battled with a weak currency. Add limited print runs to the mix and the price of books headed north quicker than a kugel out of Braamfontein on a Saturday afternoon.

These doyen’s of the tome gave rise to a rich history and culture which continues to flow through Joburg’s veins to this very day.

Collectors Treasury

As the largest second-hand bookshop in southern Africa with over 2 million titles spread over five floors, there are literally stories for days at Collectors Treasury. Located in Maboneng and owned and managed by the Klass family, brothers Geoff and Jonathan are bibliophiles of note. Jonathan’s wife Jenny handles the task of marketing this Joburg institution.

“Your interest will lead you” shared Geoff with me, as I asked for advice on navigating this behemoth. My advice? Go with time on your hands as you browse Greek and Roman classics, books on philosophy, motoring, guns and World War II. There is also a large photography section which captured my attention. Their collection is extensive, varied and captivating. Geoff shared the story of a book found in a rubbish dump, which subsequently sold for R60 000.

Collectors Treasury also stocks a few antique items and a large collection of vinyls, including an Elvis and Janice vinyl, made in South Africa back in the day. Find Collectors Treasury at CTP House, 244 Commissioner Street, City and Suburban.

The Commune

As a self-styled radical bookstore, coffee shop and reference library, The Commune is all about people organising in alternative ways. A sense of community drives this non-profit, located in Braamfontein on Reserve Street. You could be forgiven for thinking you were actually in a forest, as vegetation of all sorts hangs from beams connecting each side of the street.

With a passion for revolutionary politics, the project is run by a team of eight, with works covering topics from grassroots social movements, to environmentalism, queer theory and disability studies. Plus you’ll find books on art, poetry and fiction.

Their commitment to community runs deep and is more than just words designed to entice you to part with your hard-earned rands. During the 2021 student protests, The Commune provided a safe space for students to meet.

Find The Commune, which also serves great coffee and vegan cakes, at 14 Reserve Street, Braamfontein.

L’Elephant Terrible Bookshop

L’Elephant Terrible was started by the husband and wife team of Wolfgang and Gundi Weinek and owes its name to a rather amorous elephant observed on a zoo outing, and how the goings-on was explained to a group of school children. Wolfgang, a founding trustee of the Market Gallery and erstwhile trustee of the Market Theatre, together with Gundi, began sharing their passion for books back in 1987 at a local market located within the Market Theatre building.

Sadly Wolfgang is no longer with us, but Gundi continues the love affair at a shop in the 44 Stanley precinct in Milpark. On a chilly winter’s morning I met Cati, Gandhi’s daughter, who helps her mom to manage the shop. Talking about her parents’ love of books, handed down to her, she told me they had always been passionate about access to literature. And, as such, an independent bookstore was a natural extension of this ethos.

“We are but custodians of the written arts,” shared Cati, as we walked through the curated space. Her eyes lit up as she recounted how a young man proposed using a note strategically placed in a certain book and how other books were secretly priced to surprise the observant browser. Although the collection on offer is varied, I particularly enjoyed the selection of Africana works.

Find L’Elephant Terrible Bookshop at 44 Stanley Avenue, Milpark.

James Findlay Collectable Books and Antique Maps

Another husband and wife-run local bookshop, operated by James and Kate Findlay, is to be found in the basement of the Rand Club in downtown Johannesburg. As a respected figure in the trade, James has many stories to share of items which have passed through his hands.

The shop stocks second hand books covering a diverse range of topics including the history of Johannesburg, the Boer War and a large selection of non-fiction titles. James says he is always on the lookout for works you won’t easily find elsewhere. Collectable and rare books are sold via auctions which makes the works available to a wider audience of true enthusiasts.

When it comes to antique maps, James shows me his oldest piece, dating back to 1619, beautifully showcasing the continent of Africa. The art of cartography, as practised in these early specimens, is riddled with stories of intrigue. Empty maps were not desirable which in turn led to the inclusion of often questionable elements on the map. Interesting fact: blank spaces depicting the unknown were often marked “here be dragons” on old maps. These fascinating pieces do however provide an interesting snapshot of life as it was at that time.

In addition to books and maps, James Findlay also stocks an interesting range of political posters. These apartheid-era relics, the most desirable of which were printed in Botswana by the Medu Art Ensemble, were smuggled into South Africa and used during the resistance.

Find James Findlay Collectable Books and Antique Maps at 33 Loveday Street, Marshalltown. 

The independent bookshops of Joburg are as intriguing as the stories of her residents, offering interesting insights into life in Joburg in 2022. Harking back to the past and providing entertainment in the now. What a city in which to live and explore. Those potholes, however, are something else.