Africa’s top 10 emerging brands

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Fashion brands and personalities in Africa had a great 2022. 

We saw the likes of Thebe Magugu venture into collaborations with fashion powerhouses such as Valentino and Adidas. Adebayo Oke-Lawal, Adama Ndiaye, Laureen Kouassi-Olson and a few others made it to the Business of Fashion (BoF) 500. Luxury French brand Chanel debuted at the African show in Dakar in Senegal. And Thomson Adeju of Lagos Space Programme made it to the finals of the Woolmark Prize Awards.

We also saw mainstream and young designers make their way to fashion’s world stage, such as the Lagos Fashion Week and South Africa Fashion Week. 

Important conversations about sustainability, funding, fashion’s intersection with technology — artificial intelligence, 3D, virtual reality and augmented reality — mentorship schemes, and fashion education and the globalisation of the African fashion industry were also highlighted.

Fashion continually offers itself as a way for people to have deep and nuanced conversations. It connects people and offers a sense of belonging to its wearer. Just like some art, most garments are never superficial. They have deeper connotations, from the thread down to the design details. 

More fashion and accessory brands continue to surface as their creative directors tap into different elements of themselves to create brands that are a part of their identities — whether by race, femininity, masculinity, sexual orientation, past experiences, or otherwise. 

As with many brands, a vision for 2023 is to build something that’s globally recognised. This list of 10 designers showcases those who are doing incredible work to achieve this. 

Abigail Ajobi, Nigeria

Abigail Ajobi is that eponymous Nigerian fashion label without a stop button. 

The brand is known for its direct approach to sustainable streetwear, and its effort to contribute to the charity foundation, Keeping It Real Foundation, which aims to influence the lives of women, vulnerable children, youth, disadvantaged people, prison inmates and broader society through education, advocacy, and sustainable development programmes.

Barely two years into its official establishment, Abigail Ajobi made appearances the London Fashion Week, Paris Fashion Week and Lagos Fashion Week. 

Ajobi is a graduate of the London College of Fashion.

Abigail Ajobi also received the University of the Arts London Enterprise award for the brand’s contribution to sustainability and community empowerment as well as recently being shortlisted for the British Fashion Council’s Newgen award for the best emerging fashion design.

Ajabeng, Ghana

Founded by Travis Obeng-Casper, a Ghanaian designer and artist, the Ajabeng Ghana brand is deeply rooted in minimalism. From its choice of colour and fabric textures to the design elements, added accessories and elegant tailoring, the brand offers items that are a fine mix of minimalism and contemporary African art in menswear and womenswear.

A key knack for this brand since its launch in 2018 is its approach to and prioritisation of sustainable fashion. In doing this, it has released collections that frontier eco-friendliness, made appearances on platforms such as Vogue Italia and Arise 30Under30, and is also stocked by leading e-commerce platforms such as The Folklore and Industries Africa.

Oshobor, Nigeria 

Based in Nigeria and founded by Peter Oshobor, the Oshobor Nigeria brand is one that tells the story of masculinity in the very conservative Nigeria. It’s one that spearheads the experiences of men, and draws inspiration from various emotions such as love, anger, warmth and hate.

Since its establishment in 2020, the brand has made incredible strides, such as being a finalist in Green Access, an initiative put together by Lagos Fashion Week, which was its opportunity to make its runway debut.

Boyedoe, Ghana

Boyedoe has deconstruction and reconstruction as its premise. The brand pride itself for being sustainable through producing no-waste fashion. 

The brand draws inspiration from its African origin and global experiences to create sartorial pieces that are works of art.

In 2020, David Kusi Boye-Doe founded the Boyedoe brand to tell a new kind of pan-African story, and has been doing a great job at it, frontlining its clients, and making pieces that are created from thoughtfulness and intention.

Sahrzad Designs, Morocco 

Founded by Scheherazade Essrhir, a Moroccan designer, the Sahrzad Designs brand is one built to celebrate and recognise the intersection of heritage and modern fashion. 

Essrhir is a proud Moroccan woman and it shows in her work.

Her interpretation of Moroccan traditions and heritage are evident in her fabric choices, design aesthetics and patterns/construction. For example, her latest Spring/Summer 2023 collection, which was shown at Lagos Fashion Week, she used sfifa, a kind of embroidery significant to the people of Morocco, and all made by hand. 

Tackussanu, Senegal 

Tackussanu is a sustainable brand that produces lovable handcrafted bags and baskets. 

According to Jasz, the founder of Tackussanu Senegal, the goal is to start a business that creates a sense of pride and stability for anyone that identifies with the brand’s origin and African identity.

So far, the brand has managed to centre artisanal sophistication in its production, and works with craftsmen and craftswomen to produce functional commodities. 

Emphasising the sustainability of the products and brand values, Tackussanu says, “Each piece is made following fair trade principles, ultimately contributing to a life-changing sustainable income and giving back to the people who made it.”

Jiamini Kenya, Kenya 

Jiamini Kenya is an accessories brand that produces earrings, bracelets, belts, bags and other accessories for the everyday woman. 

Jiamini means “believe in yourself” in Swahili. 

In creating these pieces that flatter the feminine body, the brand focuses on age-old techniques and artisanal craftsmanship.

The brand was founded by Jennifer Mulli in 2016. The products reflect the 42 tribes in Kenya, celebrating and recognising the country’s diverse culture. 

“The brand’s one-of-a-kind pieces are a reminder and encouragement to women who are bold, brilliant, confident, courageous, strong, sensual and liberated. She’s an enigma to most and a balance of delicacy and strength to those who come across her path,” according to Jiamini.

Meraki Jewellery Design, South Africa 

At first glance, you’ll find that Meraki Jewellery is crafted with love. It’s easy on the eyes and has a gorgeous finish. Established by Megan Keyser, the brand’s accessories are made of ethically sourced materials, primarily gemstones and solid metals.

The brand, which is based in Cape Town and ships its accessories around the world, produces pieces with acute geometric elements, sophistication and elegance. 

According to Meraki Jewellery Design, “Every piece of jewellery is handmade with care and given special attention to detail, embracing natural imperfections of the hand at work and staying true to the beauty of the materials used.”

LilaBare, Kenya 

LilaBare is a Kenya-based fashion label that prioritises eco-friendliness and ethical production. 

Since the age of 13, Ria Ana Sejpal, the founder and creative director, has been producing garments that make a lasting impression on her community and patrons. 

The name LilaBare is formed from two words, Lila (Sanskrit) and Bare (English) and means “the outcome of creative play” and “in its natural state”, respectively. This is the brand’s premise.

LilaBare is transparent about its sustainable approach to design and products, some of which include the use of regenerative fibres, locally crafted garments, natural dyes. Items are upcycled and durable. 

LilaBare encourages clients to return pieces for free repairs and reworks. 

The brand also encourages inclusivity and gender fluidity. 

Shezi Heru, South Africa 

Themba Paulos Shezi is a South African designer, founder and creative director of Shezi Heru, a label that’s big on sustainability and no-waste fashion. 

Shezi’s mind is filled with construction and he translates that into his designs. 

Being a finalist at the Lagos Fashion Week’s Green Access afforded him the chance to make his debut, where models strutted in overlay garments, beaded bags, and deconstructed and reconstructed pants.

The brand’s design focus is an inclusive one; it focuses on producing clothing for men, women and non-binary people and includes avant-garde, ready-to-wear items, streetwear and festival wear.